SKIN CARE ADVICE FROM OUR EXPERTS
Does Sweat Cause Acne?
"I work out during the day and sometimes don't have time to shower. Does sweat cause acne around the chest and back area?"
Sweat can cause a condition called "poral occlusions," which are red bumps caused by a combination of oil and sweat mixed together, clogging your pores. The best way to treat this area is to shower with a gentle exfoliating wash after you work out. If you don't have time to shower, at a minimum, wipe the excess perspiration from the skin with a moist towel, then blot the skin dry. Look for a spray that contains acne-fighting ingredients that you can apply before getting dressed.
Acne and Teen Self-Esteem
"My 13-year-old daughter has acne. She's being treated for it, but she's very embarrassed; it seems to be affecting her self-esteem. Any advice?"
Acne at any age can have a detrimental effect on self-esteem, which seems to be magnified during the teen years. When I see a patient who suffers from poor self-esteem due to acne, I tend to take more time with them, listening to their concerns, and relating to my own experience of having acne during my youth. I overcame the condition, and they can too. I also tend to be a bit more aggressive in my treatment, to quickly improve the skin condition and turn their confidence around. First of all, if the patient is currently treating the acne, and the treatment she is using is not working or giving positive results, I suggest switching to something different. I also recommend an "inside-outside" approach to treatment: I suggest patients take a supplement containing ingredients such as vitamin A and zinc to help control breakouts, as well as using topical products.
What causes acne?
The main factors that contribute to acne are dead skin cells, excess sebum or oil, P. Acnes Bacteria and inflammation. True acne is caused when your dead skin cells combine with bacteria and excess oil in your pores, causing inflamed areas that turn into pimples. This inflammation in turn causes even more inflammation. Acne breakouts can also be triggered when combined with environmental causes, such as too much sun exposure, stress and a diet heavy in iodine.
Most over-the-counter acne treatments work either by removing dead skin cells, controlling oil and/or reducing surface bacteria. It's also important to treat inflammation. And keep in mind there are other skin conditions that may look like acne but aren't, including rosacea and eczema. For this reason you may want to see a dermatologist before you begin treating acne yourself.
My Benzoyl Peroxide Doesn't Work"
Over-the-counter benzoyl peroxide products don't help me. Will it make a difference if I get a doctor's prescription for a higher concentration?"
There are many prescription-only benzoyl peroxide formulas that are blended with antibiotics such as erythromycin or clindamycin. While these may be helpful, benzoyl peroxide can be extremely drying and irritating when used for any length of time. For some people, this form of treatment can be irritating and can cause inflammation, which actually makes the acne look worse. For an alternative, look for products that include a combination of hydrogen peroxide and salicylic acid, which is much less irritating to the skin, yet provides incredible results.
Acne At All Ages
"I never had acne as a teenager. Now I'm 40 and I'm having a serious outbreak. What should I do?"
Please know you are not alone, some people go their entire lives with blemish-free skin and then as adults suddenly they get acne outbreaks. Others have acne on and off throughout their lives. The truth is, at different ages and stages of your life, you can get acne for different reasons.
These include:
Teenage acne. This occurs mainly down the middle of your face and is exacerbated as hormones surge throughout adolescence. Teenage acne tends to be oilier, so I recommend products that include salicylic and glycolic acids to deep-clean the pores, and hydrogen peroxide to purify the skin without drying it out.
Adult female acne. This is common in women between 20 and 30 and is usually associated with stress and environmental factors like pollution. Recent studies have proven a direct link between stress and acne. Researchers believe that it is the increase of glucocorticoids and adrenal androgens, both hormones known to worsen acne, that are released during periods of emotional stress. These hormones stimulate the sebaceous glands, causing excess oil to build up in your pores, contributing to more acne. Other outside elements that can cause and aggravate acne in adult women include excess sun exposure, poor diet and contact with substances such as heavy fabric softeners, oily makeup or some hair care products. This kind of acne tends to require products that treat acne but also remedy dehydration and include ingredients that leave skin with a matte texture.
Hormonal acne. This is common in women as they enter perimenopause and menopausal ages. As early as the mid-30s, estrogen levels can begin to decline, causing changes in the skin that include not only acne, but increased facial hair, and dull, thinning skin. For hormonal acne, I recommend the topical application of products that include retinol, or azeleic and salicylic acids to reduce breakouts and decrease oil production. Additional ingredients such as phytoestrogens and panthenol help to soothe and calm skin.
Why do I have dark spots left over from healed blemishes?
This condition is called hyperpigmentation, and it results from an inflammatory response that occurs after the blemish has healed, also known as post-inflammatory pigmentation. It is caused by the inflammation that assaulted the skin. Discoloration can range from red to dark brown, depending on your skin tone, and can take weeks to fade.
As a blemish heals, excess pigment is generated in the area where the trauma occurred. These superficial pigmented scars will heal faster with the help of anti-inflammatory ingredients such as zinc, arnica, licorice and green tea. Products high in ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) also play an important role in reducing unwanted pigmentation.
To reduce your chances of hyperpigmentation use SPF 15 sun protection product every day and try not to pick the blemish as it is healing.
What is the best way to care for my dry, sensitive skin?
· Follow a skincare regimen that contains m oisturizing agents such as (sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, ceramides) to hydrate, smooth fine lines and keep skin soft, ss well as a nti-inflammatories (licorice extract, chamomile, aloe vera) to calm redness.
· Daily use and reapplication of full-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen SPF 15 or higher to help protect the moisture-holding barrier function.
· Take dietary internal skincare supplements containing ingredients such as glucosamine, amino acids and essential fatty acids which boost collagen production and help to maintain water in the cells for healthy cell function.
· Professional care: Regular facials by a qualified licensed esthetician help keep sensitive skin properly cleansed, exfoliated and hydrated.
· Air filters can help, for home and workplace, to absorb airborne irritants.
· A Humidifier f or home and workplace, helps to boost hydration in the air, also great for hair, skin and nails.
· Fragrance-free laundry detergent can help. Some have found that switching to a fragrance-free detergent and fabric softener for their sheets and towels helps prevent irritation.
· Using rubber gloves while cleaning or doing dishes helps protect the hands. If you are sensitive to rubber or latex, slip on a thin pair of cotton ones first. Thin cotton gloves are also good to use for household cleaning.
What exactly is environmental damage, and how can I prevent it?
Sun exposure, ambient light (fluorescent and halogen lights, and indirect UV exposure through windows), pollution, toxins, poor nutrition, and internal stress are important components of environmental damage, for they are catalysts for free radical exposure. These free radicals weaken the skin’s support system of collagen and elastin which accelerates the visible signs of premature aging. These include: hyperpigmentation (excess pigmentation in age spots, uneven color, freckles, and post-inflammatory response), hypopigmentation (Lack of color in random light spots lending a mottles appearance), fine lines, coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity and tone, rough, scaly texture dry, leathery appearance, broken capillaries (telangiectasia) and sallow color.
There are several things that you can do to ward off environmental damage.
· Follow a proper daily skincare regimen that includes: Exfoliants (AHAs and BHAs) to slough off dead pigmented skin cells, Moisturizers (essential fatty acids and ceramides) to hydrate and plump skin, Vitamin-C and other antioxidants to neutralize free radicals, Anti-inflammatories (zinc, licorice extract, chamomile, green tea) to diminish redness, and Lightening Agents (hydroquonine) to fade brown pigment.
· Protect yourself from the outside by using a full-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen every day.
· Protect yourself from the inside by taking supplements that include antioxidants, Including Vitamins C, A and E to neutralize free radical damage.
· See a qualified esthetician regularly for facial treatments that include Vitamin-C and exfoliation.
· Do not tan. Whether outdoors or in a tanning bed, all tans are damaging to your skin and health, even if you don’t burn. If you can’t live without the glow, self-tanners are both safe and cosmetically appealing.
· Don’t smoke. Smoking is one of the worst kinds of environmental damage there is because the burning toxins are literally in your face, up close and personal.
Why Is Exfoliation Important?
Cell turnover is an ongoing process. The skin cell forms at the bottom of the epidermis, rises up through that layer, dies and is shed. As we age, this process slows and the cells that pile up on the surface of your skin are left there for longer periods of time. For a while the natural moisture factors that surround them keep them supple. But eventually, exposure to the environment takes its toll. To keep that barrier strong, you have to remove those dead cells.
Exfoliation makes up for nature’s slowdown by chemically or mechanically removing the topmost layer of those dead cells. To replace the shed cells, the epidermis then steps up production of new ones. The body’s natural effort to keep up with this increased shedding creates healthy cells more quickly.
Exfoliating is one of the best and quickest things that you can do to improve your skin’s appearance. By removing the rough cells, your skin’s color and texture will improve almost immediately, and by temporarily improving circulation, your skin will appear brighter.
To enjoy the benefits of exfoliation, use a cleanser that contains gentle abrasive materials such as jojoba beads or cornmeal and/or hydroxy acids. You can continue the process with moisturizer that allows hydroxyl acids to remain on the skin. And you can give your skin a serious turnover boost with a treatment product that contains one or more hydroxyl acids once a day or several times a week.
Can I use my facial moisturizer under my eyes?
No because the skin around the eyes is three times thinner than the face and needs its own formula, especially if using an oil-free facial moisturizer. Also, since the pH of the skin around the eyes differs than the face, using a facial formula can disrupt the pH and result in millia, small, white bumps that look like pimples. Use a product specifically for the eyes and follow directions accordingly.
Should I use my SPF moisturizer as my night moisturizer?
No since the formula is not pH balanced for overnight use and can clog pores. Also it is not recommended to use at night since the skin is not exposed to any environmental factors.
When should I start seeing results when I start using a new skin product?
A general timeline is approximately 14-15 days, but full results may not be apparent until 28-30 days, since this is an approximate time cycle for skin cell turnover. Also, any skin product should not sting or irritate and if it does, discontinue use and switch to a new formula.
I’ve been using my moisturizer/eye cream/serum for several years and I don’t think it’s working anymore. Is this possible?
Yes since our skin evolves over our lifetimes and each person’s skin chemistry is unique. Some people can use the same products for years while some may need to switch to more potent formulas. If the product that someone has been using doesn’t produce any more results, try a specialized skin treatment or samples of new products before completely switching to a new brand
